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Food isn’t only an art but also a history lesson. Dishes such as lasagna and sushi come with centuries (and even millennia) of history. They showcase a blend of traditions and even stories of overcoming pandemics. However, only a select few dishes have been honored as national treasures.
One example is China’s Dongpo pork. It’s been immortalized in the Meat-Shaped Stone sculpture, which attracts hundreds of visitors every year to Taipei’s National Palace Museum in Taiwan.
Su Dongpo. Dongpo pork originated in Hangzhou in Eastern China during the Song Dynasty (between 960 and 1279). The Chinese traditional dish was created in response to a surplus of pork belly. The dish is named after its inventor, Su Dongpo, who was a renowned poet, calligrapher, musician, historian, and politician. He had held significant positions in the imperial administration but was banished to Huangzhou due to a disagreement with a politician.
Su Dongpo was well-regarded for his efforts to improve the living conditions of local residents by constructing dams to prevent flooding. He received large quantities of pork belly as a result of his good deeds. Also a skilled cook, he decided to slow-cook the pork belly with Shaoxing wine and soy sauce as a way to repay the community and make use of the surplus.
Pork belly. The beloved dish was finally named after Su Dongpo. For nearly 1,000 years, it’s been one of China’s traditional staples, with the secret lying in both the meat used and the cooking method. According to tradition, the pork should be cut into cubes, around 2 inches on each side. The dish needs to alternate layers of lean meat and fat to ensure it’s not overly greasy or heavy.
To prepare it, the pork is slow-braised with a mixture of fermented wine and soy sauce. The result is a tender, juicy dish that exudes a distinctive aroma and is regarded as a hallmark of Hangzhou cuisine.
The Qing dynasty. As the centuries passed, the Qing dynasty emerged, ruling China from 1644 to 1912. The imperial dynasty significantly raised China’s profile on the international stage, transforming it into one of the world’s largest and most prosperous empires during the 18th century. This period of prosperity was marked by a flourishing of the arts, which skillfully blended innovation with tradition.
The Qing emperors were patrons of several artistic endeavors, with sculpture being particularly favored by some rulers. During this era of splendor, one intriguing creation emerged: a tribute to the Dongpo pork. It’s become one of China’s oddest yet most amusing and iconic treasures.
Meat-Shaped Stone. Using veined jasper as the main material, the artisan crafted a piece with nearly perfect dimensions of 2.25 x 2.6 x 2.1 inches.
The author colored the stone to closely resemble the appearance of fat and lean meat, and also created tiny holes that mimic the pores of pork skin. The unknown artist accurately reflected all the layers of meat, from the crispy skin to the varying textures inside. They adorned the piece with colors that made it look like meat marinated in soy sauce.
One of three treasures. A quick glance at the images above is enough to appreciate the artist’s technical excellence. The Meat-Shaped Stone is considered the most famous masterpiece at Taipei’s National Palace Museum. It’s also been exhibited internationally and attracts large crowds.
Alongside the Jadeite Cabbage and the Mao Gong Ding, it stands as a reigning masterpiece in Taiwan’s museum galleries. However, this may not sit well with China due to ongoing geopolitical tensions.
The Meat-Shaped Stone beautifully exemplifies how history, art, tradition, and cuisine intertwine. The Qing dynasty allowed artists at the time to create sculptures that delighted the imperial court.
Images | Ondřej Žváček | Sjschen | National Palace Museum
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