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Alba Otero
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Alba Mora
WriterAn established tech journalist, I entered the world of consumer tech by chance in 2018. In my writing and translating career, I've also covered a diverse range of topics, including entertainment, travel, science, and the economy.
In an age where perfect skin is highly coveted, the beauty industry is constantly pushing boundaries. Innovations range from face masks containing bee venom to serums infused with snail mucus, and even injections that claim to reverse aging. Any ingredient that promises youthful skin, elasticity, and radiance is likely to gain traction, even if it includes unconventional elements like salmon sperm.
A new anti-aging elixir? While the mention of salmon sperm may raise some eyebrows, it’s important to clarify that this treatment doesn’t involve applying reproductive cells directly to the skin. According to experts, salmon sperm is gaining popularity because of its polynucleotides, which are DNA fragments derived from the fish’s sperm. Polynucleotides are effective for repairing, regenerating, and producing collagen in the skin.
Celebrities are no strangers to these treatments. For instance, Jennifer Aniston discussed her experiences with this type of procedure in an interview with The Wall Street Journal, humorously asking her beautician, “Are you serious? How do you get salmon’s sperm?”
What was once considered a luxury has now evolved into a widespread aesthetic trend. It’s now attracting a growing number of followers, including dermatology clinics and social media influencers.
The big question. How do you get salmon sperm? The answer is more technical than biological. Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is extracted by processing and purifying DNA from the gonads (the sexual organs) of salmon. Sperm isn’t used in this process. Instead, the genetic material is broken down into polynucleotide fragments. These fragments are then incorporated into serums, masks, and injections, and can also be combined with techniques such as microneedling or laser treatments.
Dermatologist Mansha Sethi Thacker explained to Verywell Health that in the U.S., PDRN is typically applied topically after procedures such as exosome therapy and laser treatments. Meanwhile, in Asia, it’s usually injected directly.
Does it really work? Proponents of PDRN treatment assert that it delivers visible and gradual benefits. According to Dr. Adam Friedman, a dermatologist at George Washington University, PDRN stimulates collagen production and enhances hydration. It also accelerates cell regeneration and healing, reduces inflammation, and improves pigmentation.
“It’s a slower process, but biostimulators like polynucleotides get the skin cells working to produce and support these buildings block of good skin,” facialist Adeela Crown told the Financial Times.
Use in medicine. Although the popularity of PDRN treatments is relatively recent, its benefits suggest that it’s been in use for some time. Polynucleotides were previously employed in medical settings to treat burns, serious wounds, and ulcers. Moreover, according to Verywell Health, preliminary research indicates that PDRN may have anti-inflammatory effects. Some also use it to slow hair loss and strengthen the scalp, with treatments typically repeated every few weeks.
Are there any side effects? As with any cosmetic treatment, PDRN does have some precautions. A New York-based plastic surgeon told The Guardian that side effects are generally mild and may include bruising, swelling, or redness, particularly if the product is injected. Additionally, there’s a risk of allergic reactions.
Dermatologist Emma Craythorne told the Financial Times, “While there have been a lot of different studies on polynucleotides, none of them is particularly high-quality.” Moreover, while the results are promising, there’s still a need for more robust clinical research to confirm efficacy.
A new aesthetic revolution? Many specialists view polynucleotide treatment as a paradigm shift in aesthetic medicine. This treatment aims not only to address visible signs of aging but also to preserve and stimulate the skin’s natural functions. It’s a biostimulator that doesn’t alter the volume or shape of the face. As such, it’s suitable for both young individuals seeking preventive care and for those with mature skin showing significant sagging or elastosis.
Additionally, polynucleotide treatment is starting to be used in areas where other treatments have proven less effective, such as the lower eyelids, where botulinum toxin may not produce satisfactory results. An oculoplastic surgeon told the Financial Times that “polynucleotides have transformed [her] practice” because of the safety they offer in sensitive areas like the eye contour.
What does the future hold? What began as an eye-catching trend has progressed into a movement supported by clinics, dermatologists, and celebrities. However, amid the promises of cell regeneration and media excitement, one question arises: Is this a genuine scientific revolution, or is it just another passing cosmetic trend disguised with a trendy name?
Currently, science is advancing at a slower pace than social media. However, history says that in the pursuit of eternal youth, no ingredient–no matter how improbable–seems off-limits.
Image | Brandon
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