Few things reflect a country’s culinary preferences more than pizza toppings. So, when news broke that a Southeast Asian fruit—so pungent it’s banned in some public spaces—was captivating Chinese consumers and making its way onto pizza, durian officially became a national obsession. Demand has skyrocketed, igniting fierce competition among four countries eager to supply the booming market.
A fruit everyone wants. Known for its overpowering aroma and divisive flavor, durian has evolved from a niche product to a culinary and commercial sensation in China. Despite economic slowdowns affecting the middle class, enthusiasm for the “forbidden fruit” remains unshaken, fueling record imports, innovative dining trends, and intense rivalry among Southeast Asian exporters.
Durian’s transformation. Durian has moved beyond its status as an exotic delicacy to a full-blown restaurant trend. The “everything can have durian” movement has sparked a wave of specialized eateries serving unconventional dishes like durian burgers, durian chicken hot pots, and even durian barbecues—all widely shared on social media platforms.
To grasp the scale of this craze, consider Douyin (China’s TikTok), where hashtags like “durian barbecue” and “durian buffet” have amassed over 1.24 billion views. One restaurant in Shenzhen recently went viral for offering a buffet of more than 200 Malaysian durian-based dishes for 199 yuan ($27.39) per person, underscoring the fruit’s rise to culinary stardom.
Explosive growth in China. Over the past five years, China’s demand for durian has more than doubled. According to Fortune, in 2023, the country imported 3.15 billion pounds of durian worth $6.7 billion, a figure that climbed to 3.43 billion pounds and $7 billion in 2024.
Opening the market to new suppliers and integrating durian into various food products have fueled this surge. One of the most striking examples is Pizza Hut’s durian cheese pizza, now its best-selling item in China. Even Yum China CEO Joey Wat joked at a global forum that anyone who doesn’t appreciate this delicacy should “walk out” of the restaurant.
The end of Thailand’s monopoly: a four-way battle. Thailand once controlled up to 95% of China’s durian imports. But after China approved fresh durian imports from Vietnam in 2022 and the Philippines in 2023, the balance shifted dramatically. By 2024, Thailand’s share had dropped to 52%, while Vietnam surged to 47.2%.
Meanwhile, Malaysia and the Philippines have entered the fresh durian market, taking advantage of loosened regulations. Thailand’s declining dominance stems from two key factors: overexploitation of farmland and extreme heat waves affecting fruit quality. Conversely, Vietnam’s geographic proximity gives it a logistics advantage, allowing for cheaper and faster transport.
The geopolitics of durian. Beyond economics, durian plays a role in diplomatic strategy. China has used durian imports to strengthen trade ties with neighboring countries.
For instance, in June 2023, China greenlit fresh durian imports from Malaysia as part of a broader agreement celebrating 50 years of diplomatic relations. By the end of the year, Malaysia had shipped 351 tons of fresh durian to China, breaking into a market that had previously only accepted its processed or frozen varieties. Indonesia, another major durian producer, is still awaiting approval to export fresh fruit directly. Currently, it can only sell durian paste—a lower-value product—or send fruit to Thailand for inspection before re-export, cutting into profits.
“Chinese” durian. With demand soaring and import costs high, China has attempted to cultivate durian domestically, focusing on the tropical island of Hainan. However, results have been disappointing.
Studies show that Hainan-grown durians lack essential nutrients found in their Southeast Asian counterparts, casting doubt on their commercial viability. The delicate combination of temperature, humidity, and soil quality needed for durian cultivation appears difficult to replicate outside its native habitat.
It’s the market, my friend. China’s insatiable appetite for durian has reshaped Southeast Asia’s fruit industry, turning it into a high-value export and disrupting trade dynamics. Thailand’s dominance has weakened, while Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Philippines have seized new opportunities.
“Durian diplomacy” has emerged as a strategic trade tool, strengthening China’s ties with its neighbors. Yet, despite efforts to grow it locally, producing high-quality durian remains a challenge. For now, the battle to supply China’s favorite smelly fruit rages on.
Image | Mufid Majnun (Unsplash)
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